In its fourth decade of independence from the former Soviet Union, Armenia has mostly thrived, becoming something of an under-the-radar destination for travelers. Its capital, Yerevan, is vibrant and inviting, radiating sidewalk energy, that urban pulse of a great night out that a visit to this Central Asian hub memorable.
Armenia cuisine has a distinctly Levantine vibe – if you’ve been to Greece, Turkey or Lebanon, there are plenty of familiar, delicious elements. Here are some highlights for travelers with adventurous appetites.
Bring Your Armenian Appetite
An intro to Armenian cuisine starts small, with plenty of choices. The first sight of a mouth-watering meze platter, a huge dish of appetizers, brought to mind a sort of Central Asian version of tapas. The collection of small dishes included hummus, baba ghanoush, tolmas (grape leaves stuffed with meat, rice and herbs), Armenian cheeses, olives, nuts and dried fruits, all to be heaped on pieces of lavash, slightly sour soft flatbread that’s unmistakably Armenian. Sujuk, a traditional sausage, offered a spicy, meaty complement to the other dishes.
Plates of khorovats – Armenian kebabs – skewers of marinated grilled lamb, chicken, pork or beef – were another staple of that first, great food crawl through Kentron. Friendly locals suggested looking out for basturma, thin slices of air-dried beef, and harissa, a signature national dish of cooked wheat, stewed with lamb or chicken for hours. The rich, porridgy dish was filling enough to signal the first stirrings of a food coma, but the night out promised so much more.
A Culinary Crawl through Kentron
The sprawling capital is divided into 12 districts, and for many travelers, Kentron, or Central, proves to be a bit of a hidden hotspot for exploring local culture and cuisine.
Dolmama, one of Kentron’s more popular restaurants, updates traditional Armenian cuisine with modern touches, and lays the hospitality on thick. In addition to the tolmas that give the restaurant its name, house specials like mountain lamb stew or chicken in wine and walnut sauce, eaten on their interior open-air terrace, are the culinary foundation of a fine night out.
Or opt for Wine Republic, as a first or second stop. This gastro-focused wine bar puts Armenian varietals front and center. Tasting are easy to arrange, the staff lives up to its reputation for friendliness, and the introduction to reds and rosés made from the ancient areni varietal, dry and semi-sweet whites based on voskehat, or “golden seed” grapes, as well as other native varietals for reds – kakhet, khndoghni and karmrhyut, and whites made from aygavan and rkatsiteli grapes makes for a great tableside survey of one of the world’s oldest winemaking regions.
Northern Avenue is the best place to walk off this round of food and drinks. Yerevan nights mean buskers and open-air concerts, with locals and visitors filling the sidewalks. A stop at Segafredo Zanetti Espresso, a small local chain, means a silky-smooth cup of coffee where the extra-fine ground used in Armenia makes for a notably smooth brew and a silky, caffeine-powered second wind.
And Then It’s Late in the Evening
Late-night drink options make the area around Northern Ave. a lively spot after dark. Cocktails at Kong don’t disappoint, and live music at the Calumet Ethnic Lounge Bar gives a big night out a soundtrack, as well as a chance to check out Armenia’s potent brandies. Popping into Mezzo Classic House Club, one of the better-known clubs in Kentron, gives you a chance to dance some off your earlier feast to live music– it’s open late for the night owls with global moves.
There’s nothing quite as satisfying as a late-night (or very early morning) stop for a warm, greasy kabob before finally packing it in, and Artashi Mot is there for you. They’ll deliver if you’re already about to crash.
Kudos to Kentron
Armenian hospitality is a long tradition, and visitors are welcomed warmly. The Armenian diaspora created connections to many parts of the world, and Yerevan deserves its reputation as a memorable place to visit. Kentron concentrates the best of the country’s cuisine and culture, making a good night out a delicious survey of the country as a whole.
