Oslo, the Norwegian capital, sits nestled in the innermost folds of steep fjords, surrounded by woodlands dotted with lakes and bordered by a state nature reserve. It’s a mix of history and modernity, from a museum dedicated to an ancient Viking ship to the startling Oslo Opera House, designed so its walls look like waves churned up from the sea. And the sea is never far from Norwegian hearts – or stomachs.
The national cuisine is, unsurprisingly, fish-forward, and that’s no bad thing. This is the country that gave the world gravlaks, thin-sliced smoked salmon, usually served with dill and mustard sauce, and nearly infinite ways to prepare herring. Every autumn, the capital hosts the Matstreif Food Festival, a showcase for Scandinavian dishes that highlight hearty, rich regional culinary traditions of the region. Held every September at the Rådhusplassen, in front of City Hall, it’s a celebration of Nordic flavors, ingredients, and techniques that attracts visitors and locals alike.
Wandering among the 140 vendors that include so farmers, bakers, butchers, cheese makers, cider bottlers and brewers, it’s easy to get a good sense of the national cuisine and meet locals and visitors as they sample salmon, open-faced smørrebrød sandwiches of dense rye bread and toppings like pickled herring, cold cuts, eggs, shrimp, or fresh vegetables.
Food from the Arctic Circle
Northern regional cuisine makes a strong showing, as various forms of reindeer meat, from steaks, sausages and jerky give visitors chances to sample a staple food of the indigenous Sami people, famous for herding their Arctic venison on the hoof. Sautéed reindeer, often served with lingonberries and potatoes, is a classic Norwegian dish.
The glories of Norwegian salmon are world-renowned, and the fish is presented in plenty of tasty variations. Save room for freshly caught king crab, cod, haddock and halibut dishes, from fish and chips to crab legs still in the shell.
Also, the festival offers visitors a chance to acquire a taste for some classic dried fish dishes, though the reputations of some preparations make this a real adventure. Try stockfish, preserved cod or other white fish air-dried on wooden racks, a method used for centuries before fresh fish could be refrigerated. Klippfisk, dried salted cod, gets its due in traditional dishes like bacalao, where it’s rehydrated and cooked with tomatoes, onions, and sometimes peppers.
Less uniformly beloved are lutefisk and rakfisk (“rotten fish”), aromatic Christmastime specialties that get decidedly mixed receptions. Based on its taste alone, Norwegian-Americans have an entire category of lutefisk jokes, and rakfisk, a semi-fermented freshwater trout caught the southern district of Valdres, gets even stronger reactions. Fans think it’s delicious some people think is delicious, though other tasters have called it “revolting,” “vile” and “eye-wateringly awful tasting.”
Very Berries
Norway’s sweeter side is on full display at Mastrief, too. Sampling the fruits and berries that fill forests and orchards is a sticky, lip-smacking part of the festival, since many of these Scandinavian berries are best experienced in jams and jellies. Lingonberries, known to IKEA customers around the world, make for great jams, with sugar blunting their tartness. Wild strawberries and blueberries (bilberries) raspberries, blackberries, cranberries are all part of the preserves palette, but the star attraction is the cloudberry, a creamy, golden fruit that’s prized by locals. Cider makers offer drinkable fruity options, both alcoholic and nonalcoholic.
When the festival crowds get to be too much, try a berry hike (bærtur) just outside the city. The forests are full of wild berries, and a national law called “Friluftsloven §5” gives anyone access to harvest berries, mushrooms, flowers, plants and nuts. Norway enshrines “freedom to roam” as a guiding legal and social principle – let that same freedom guide your culinary exploration through Mastrief and you’ll have a memorable, delicious experience.
Lodging: Take a Break from Your Feast
Oslo has a broad selection of hotels and restaurants that will add to the festival experience. Try Villa Frogner Bed & Breakfast, a historic centrally located, 17-room refuge in the tony Frogner neighborhood. located close to one of the city’s most popular public swimming pools. The Saga Hotel Oslo, also in Frogner, is an attractive boutique option. To get a better sense of Norway’s outdoors vibe, Losby Gods, a historic manor home a few miles east of the city, puts visitors in the middle of the forest – and next to one of the country’s best golf courses.
Other Festivals
Oslo isn’t the only food festival spot in Norway. Other Scandinavian cuisine spotlights include festivals in Bergen, in September, and Fagernes, where the Norsk Rakfiskfestival (fortunately) also offers more of the varied dishes that make Nordic cuisine so memorable. Apple and cider festivals are also part of the Norwegian autumn. Look for the ones in Telemark and Hardanger to round out your Norwegian gourmet journey.
